Frequently Asked Alpine Questions
Direct technical responses addressing common ambiguities encountered in modern alpine climbing, equipment loading limits, and emergency ridge protocol decisions.
On a 2-person rope team, the arrester must resist 100% of the fallen partner's dynamic impact force without assistance. On hard névé or steep firn, an unknotted rope can slice clean through the crevasse lip, pulling the surviving climber into the void. Tying three to four Alpine Butterfly knots spaced two meters apart along the middle section creates physical wedges. When the rope pulls against the crevasse edge, these thick knots bite into the compacted snow crust, arresting the fall mechanically before the arrester is pulled off their stance.
In dense, cold blue water ice (free of air bubbles), a modern 16cm to 19cm steel screw with reverse-thread teeth will hold between 10 kN and 14 kN before shear failure. In contrast, in aerated "candled" spring ice or solar-degraded sun-crust, screw holding strength degrades rapidly to under 4 kN. In questionable ice, always equalize two screws spaced at least 30 cm apart to prevent fractured ice webs.
Dual-points provide superior flotation and stability on deep couloir snow and vertical waterfall ice by spreading load across two parallel planes. However, on technical rock and mixed terrain (M5 and higher), dual-points tend to lever each other off narrow rock edges. Monopoints allow precise placement in thin cracks, enable pivoting without blow-outs, and focus all weight onto a single sub-centimeter crystal.
At high altitude, hyperventilation drives massive respiratory fluid loss into dry ambient air. Dehydration decreases blood plasma volume, raising blood viscosity and forcing the heart to work harder to circulate oxygen to brain tissue. This compounded circulatory sluggishness accelerates cranial capillary leakage, triggering high-altitude headache, nausea, and pulmonary edema. Mountaineers must consume at least 3 to 4 liters of fluid per day.
A turnaround is strictly mandatory under three non-negotiable conditions: 1) Reaching the predetermined clock time without achieving the summit, 2) A sudden barometric plunge of greater than 3.0 hPa over three hours accompanied by lenticular formations, or 3) Any climber displaying symptoms of ataxia, severe coughing, or irrational cognitive slowing.
Yes, but with strict precautions. Ultra-high-molecular-weight polyethylene (Dyneema/UHMWPE) has an extremely low melting point (approx 145°C) and virtually zero dynamic elasticity. Tying knots in Dyneema can reduce its rated tensile strength by up to 40%. Never subject a static Dyneema anchor to a direct shock load; always incorporate dynamic climbing rope into the personal tether system.